New!!!! Rigging Tips
At Best of Big Game, we have many customers who prefer to make their own spreader bars, dredges, daisy chains, and
bounceball rigs with our products. We just added more rigging supplies to our product lineup in addition to our squid packs and
unrigged lightweight composite raw bars and dredges. While we always offered to assist in any way possible, it made sense to
provide the rigging techniques we use to help out with the endeavor, regardless of if you choose to purchase anything.
Some chose to keep this sort of information under their hat, preferring to sell fully rigged products with greater profit margins.
The truth is anyone so inclined can produce professional quality rigging with just a few supplies, a hand swager, and the
techniques that follow. There is something special about catching fish on something you made. That said, it can be a bit of work
though. You might want to check out our reasonable pricing for spreader bars, dredges, daisy chains, and bounceball rigs to
determine what is right for you! After all, it's really about what you, our customers, want. Not what we want to sell to you.
|Basic Swaging Techniques For Terminations
Let's start with basic swaging techniques to create loops, attach
swivels, and stiff rigs for hooks for monofilament or flourocarbon
from 150lb to 40lb test. All you need to start is a pair of hand
swagers, chaff tubing, a lighter, and the proper sized aluminum
sleeves. A bench swager is recommended for line heavier than
150lb since the aluminum sleeves have a larger compression area.
|40 - 60lb
|Aluminum Sleeve Sizing Chart
To make a loop, first place the aluminum sleeve on the line, then add about 1 1/4" of chaff tubing. Pass the tag end bag
through the sleeve so it sticks out a few inches. Bend the tag end out away from the mainline (so you don't damage it) and use
the lighter briefly to burn the end until it makes a bulb. Let the bulb cool down or dip it in a bowl of water to expedite matters.
Once the bulb is cool, pull the mainline tight until it is snug below the sleeve. The chaff tubing will form a nice loop too. Then
compress the aluminum sleeve with the hand swagger. The swager will have a few different slots. Each should be marked with
the sleeve range size in millimeters.
|Repeat the process above to attach swivels and hooks.
Just get them on the line before passing the tag end back through the sleeve.
For stiff rigging hooks, cut the tubing to
about 3/8". This will vary with different
hooks. The length should be just long
enough to wrap around the hook eye. If the
tubing is too long, the extra length below
the sleeve and above the eye will result in a
loose connection, and it won't be stiff.
Ball bearing swivels and snaps are perfect
for terminations that attach to lures so they
can be quickly changed. Use this for the
mainline on spreader bars and dredges.
They work great for daisy chains too! Two
chains could be connected together also, if
you are so inclined.
|Spreader Bar & Dredge Rigging Techniques
When rigging the mainline on our lightweight composite spreader
bars or dredges, pass it through the small hole in the centerpiece.
The larger hole is not used for rigging.
The centerpiece is secured to the mainline by placing a glass
bead immediately above and below it. Then use aluminum sleeves
on either side. Swag them firmly so compressed enough to keep
the centerpiece in position. You do not want any slippage.
One nice feature about this rigging is you're fighting the fish, not
the bar, since the mainline runs through it with a direct connection
to the hook. Be sure to put a snap or ball bearing swivel on the
end too for the lure leader.
No tubing is needed to attach leaders to the bars or dredges.
For the outer wing leaders, be sure to get the sleeve fairly tight to
the bar before swaging. You want the loop tight enough so it can't
pass around the end of the bar and will always remain on the
trailing edge, where it belongs.
For inner wing leaders, just leave a nice loop so the sleeve is
about 1" below. No need to pull this one tight like the outer wings.
The bait spread is the teaser spacing. This is
measured using the distance in between the top
ends of whatever your using to keep the teasers in
place. We use leader sleeves, egg sinkers, and
aluminum sleeves, depending on the application.
The picture above shows leader sleeves with glass
beads. We also use some lead for better tracking
in spreader bars using a bench swager.
You can always use an aluminum sleeve, then
slide the egg sinker on above, since this can be
done with a hand swager.
|Bait Spread Chart By Teaser Size
|3" - 3.5"
There are more variables including wing leader lengths, and positioning the centerpieces. Each is
dependent on exactly what you are trying to make. There are too many variables to list here in
any rational manner.
Just know we are always willing to help out our customers with these details, or anyone else with
an interest, for that matter. We want to earn your trust and business.
Thanks for visiting.